What Is The Best Form Of Vitamin C For Skin?

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Skin care with vitamin CVitamin C has proven to be one of the most effective active skin care ingredients boosting the health and beauty of the skin.

In skin care products, Vitamin C is found in its natural form which is L-Ascorbic Acid or its synthetic -and more stable- derivatives which do not all have the same effects.

In this article, we will look into the differences between the various forms of Vitamin C as well as their pros and cons, and try to determine what the best form of vitamin C is.

But first let´s have a quick look at vitamin C benefits for skin:

– It is a strong antioxidant that boosts the protective barrier of the skin.
– Reduces discoloration skin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production.
– Promotes collagen and elastin production, smoothing out wrinkles and fine lines.
– Prevents water loss from the skin and stimulates its natural defense and reparation mechanisms.

Pros and Cons of Different Forms Of Vitamin C for Skin

L-Ascorbic acid

What Is L-Ascorbic acid?

L-Ascorbic Acid or Ascorbic Acid is Vitamin C in its natural form. It is water-soluble and has an acid form. It is said to be the best and most effective form of Vitamin C for the skin.

L-Ascorbic Acid Pros for the Skin

It is, first of all, a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, those destructive molecules that lead to premature aging of the skin.

It also prevents skin discoloration naturally, due to its inhibitory effect on tyrosinase function while stimulating collagen production and reducing wrinkles.

When vitamin C is topically applied on the skin on a systematic basis through the use of vitamin C serums or other effective products, it has proven to greatly improve skin quality and texture.

L-Ascorbic Acid Cons for the Skin

It is unstable and sensitive to the light and air which leads to oxidation. Daily sun protection is more than necessary when you are using a product that contains L-Ascorbic Acid.

For people with sensitive skin, a serum that contains a high percentage of L-Ascorbic Acid may cause some irritation or even temporary dryness.

Αscorbyl Palmitate

What Is Ascorbyl Palmitate?

It is the combination of ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid) with Palmitic acid, one of the most common fatty acids.

Ascorbyl Palmitate Benefits For Skin

This form of vitamin C has excellent antioxidant properties. It stimulates collagen production and thanks to its fat-soluble form, it can penetrate more deeply into the skin for an even more intensive function.

It has also been proven that when Ascorbyl Palmitate is combined with vitamin E, it offers sun protection against the ultraviolet radiation.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

What Is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate?

It is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is stable.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Pros for Skin

It has antioxidant properties and therefore is good for fighting free radicals and slowing down the appearance of signs of skin aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.

It can brighten the skin tone and can be effective as an acne breakout treatment as well when combined with other anti-acne products such as the ones that contain salicylic acid for example.

Sodium Ascorbyl Palmitate

This form of vitamin C is a water soluble derivative of the combination of ascorbic acid with palmitic acid and sodium.

Sodium Ascorbyl Palmitate Pros for Skin

It is best known for its antioxidant function and therefore It protects the skin from premature aging that is caused by the free radicals.

In addition, it is more stable than ascorbyl palmitate but equally effective even at low concentrations.

Sodium Ascorbyl Palmitate Cons

Just as ascorbic acid, this form of vitamin C is also sensitive to the air and light so it oxidizes. In this case, we need to check that the container of the skin product which contains such form of vitamin C is airtight and opaque, and never neglect the daily sun protection.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate ( MAP)

What is Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate?

It is a water-soluble and stable derivative of vitamin C.


It stimulates the production of collagen just like Vitamin C in its natural form. Because of its stability, it is recommended as a safer choice for sensitive skin. It is also an excellent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant component.


It may be one of the most stable forms of vitamin C but this does not mean that it does not oxidize, at a slower rate though. Sun protection is also necessary in this case.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

What Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

It is a steady and fat-soluble form of vitamin C.

Skin Care Benefits

It reduces melanin production, repairs skin damage from exposure to the UV radiation and stimulates collagen production. There is also evidence that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate promotes the production of natural glycosaminoglycans which keep the skin properly hydrated.

In addition, it is among the milder forms of vitamin C but very effective even at low concentrations.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

This is one of the most newly created forms of vitamin C in cosmetology. It is fat-soluble so it can penetrate deeper into the skin.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Pros for Skin

It neutralizes free radicals and prevents premature skin aging. In addition, it enhances sun protection and reduces skin damage from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It also minimizes skin discolorations and dark sun spots.

It does everything that ascorbic acid does and due to its fat-soluble form, it penetrates into the deepest layers of the skin.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Cons

It is better for people with sensitive skin to avoid using this vitamin C derivative because of its ability to penetrate deep into the skin.

In conclusion, these were some different forms of Vitamin C and by checking out their different features as well as pros and cons, you can determine which vitamin C form is best for your skin´s needs and conditions.